A short introduction
Hierve el Agua is a definite “must-see” when you are in the city/state of Oaxaca. There is a stunning mountain panorama here. The place is best known, though, for its petrified waterfalls and spring water. Apart from Pamukkale, it is the only place where you can see something like this. There are also natural and artificial pools where you can swim. Unfortunately, despite its name (in Spanish “hierve el agua” means “the water boils”), the water is only a little over 20 degrees.
For us it was the biggest must-see around Oaxaca – we were here on 21 October 2023, the day after Monte Albán.
Getting there
You can book an organised tour combined with a visit to Mitla. But then you have little time on site. It’s worth coming on your own, so you can enjoy the view and swim in the springs.
The cheapest way is to take a bus from the central bus station (Second Class Bus Station, map below) in the city of Oaxaca to Mitla (San Pablo Villa de Mitla), and then a pick-up truck. It is usually already waiting at the stop. If you don’t want to pay more, you have to wait until enough people turn up (about 10). The total travel time is about 2 hours.
The pick-up drives along a winding gravel road through the mountains. On the way you pay a small fee for the road’s upkeep (amounts in the Costs section).
Petrified waterfalls
The best-known view of Hierve el Agua is the petrified waterfalls – white, “frozen” cascades running down the mountainside. They were formed by minerals (mainly calcium carbonate) deposited over thousands of years by spring water flowing down the cliff. The effect is reminiscent of Pamukkale in Turkey.
Paths lead around the formations among columnar cacti. They’re worth walking – from the side and from below, the petrified waterfalls look completely different than from above, by the pools.
Pools and swimming
On the edge of the cliff there are natural and artificial pools with spring water. Despite the name (in Spanish “hierve el agua” means “the water boils”), the water isn’t hot at all – it was about 24 degrees. Swimming with a view of the mountains and the valley was the best part of the day for us, which is why it’s worth coming on your own and not rushing back.
The way back and mezcal tasting in Mitla
We went back by pick-up as well. At one point a Mexican got on – an extra passenger – and sat on the tailgate latch. During the ride the tailgate opened; luckily he stayed on it and didn’t end up on the ground.
Back in Mitla we went to a mezcal tasting – the spirit this region is famous for. It is made from agave, and each variety of the plant gives a different flavour. At the end we bought a piña (pineapple) mezcal liqueur.
Costs (2023)
- Getting there: bus to Mitla 20 MXN (about €1), one way
- Pick-up: 75 MXN (about €4), one way
- Road maintenance fee: 15 MXN (about €0.70)
- Entrance: 50 MXN (about €3)
