Guatemala: Tikal – an ancient Maya city in the jungle and the island of Flores

After a week in Belize, on 20 December 2023 we arrived in Guatemala – from Belize City by a pre-booked shuttle bus straight to Flores. The next day, before dawn, we set off for Tikal – an ancient Maya city hidden in the jungle in the north of the country. The first buildings are estimated to date from around 300 BC (the first traces of settlement are even older – from the 7th century BC), and today Tikal is one of the most important and largest Maya archaeological sites, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Within it lie, among other things, 6 temples, 5 plazas, 6 complexes and 3 acropolises – and all around grows a rich jungle full of animals. Guatemala has fewer ruins than Mexico, but Tikal is by far the most impressive complex we have seen.

Table of contents

1. Flores – a little town on an island
2. Getting there at dawn and tickets
3. The jungle and its animals
4. The Great Plaza – the Temple of the Jaguar and the acropolises
5. On top of the pyramids
6. Practical information

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Flores – a little town on an island

Our base was Isla de Flores – a small island on Lake Petén Itzá, linked to the mainland by a causeway, with colourful houses right by the water. Transfers to Tikal leave from here at dawn, so it is the most convenient place to stay before visiting the ruins.

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Getting there at dawn and tickets

We booked a transfer with the company Mayan World: departure from the island at 4:30, return at 14:00. Thanks to this we were at the ticket office even before it opened, at around 6:00. The complex is large and the distances between the different parts of the city are quite long – we explored for more than 5 hours, and if it had not been for the return bus at a fixed time, we would gladly have stayed longer, although we managed to see almost everything.

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The jungle and its animals

The ruins lie in the middle of the jungle, and early morning is the best time to see wild animals. Coatis were wandering around the paths and stones, and we also saw birds and monkeys. Lucky visitors may also see toucans, quetzals and maybe even traces of a jaguar.

You walk between the temples along forest paths, so on the way you can also take a close look at the plants and insects.

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The Great Plaza – the Temple of the Jaguar and the acropolises

The best-known and most recognisable building in Tikal is the Temple of the Great Jaguar, standing on the Great Plaza. Opposite it rises the Temple of the Masks, and on the sides of the plaza – acropolises with dozens of smaller temples, platforms and stairways.

The North Acropolis is a tangle of buildings added one on top of another over the centuries. Among the stones, large masks with reliefs have survived, among other things.

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On top of the pyramids

Interestingly, you can climb some of the pyramids – not up the ancient steps, but up wooden stairs built right next to them. From the top there is a beautiful panorama of the Petén jungle, with the tops of other temples poking out of it here and there.

From Flores we went south, to Semuc Champey.

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Practical information

• Transfer from Flores to Tikal – Mayan World, 100 GTQ (about €12) return; departure from the island of Flores at 4:30, return at 14:00 (December 2023).
• Tickets – a standard entry ticket cost 150 GTQ (about €17); for an extra 100 GTQ (about €12) you can add a sunrise or sunset ticket.
• How much time? It is worth setting aside at least 5 hours for the visit – we saw almost everything, but to do it without rushing you would need more.
• Time of day – the earlier the better: in the morning there is a much bigger chance of seeing animals.
• Prices in Guatemala – it was more expensive than we expected (more expensive than in Poland or Mexico), but still cheaper than in Belize. Public buses are cheap, shuttle buses reasonably priced, and the food in restaurants is good and fairly priced.
• El Mirador – the largest Maya pyramid discovered so far is neither in Tikal nor in Chichén Itzá, but in El Mirador, north of Tikal, close to the Mexican border. Getting there takes two days on foot each way through semi-wild terrain – with our tight schedule we did not even consider it.

6:47

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