Table of contents
A short introduction
Zinacantán and San Juan Chamula are towns in the state of Chiapas inhabited by the indigenous Tsotsil people (Maya). Their combined population is over 500,000. Tourists come here mainly to see their beliefs, traditions and customs, above all the pre-Columbian rituals that have been preserved and absorbed into Catholicism. It is a blend – or rather a creation – unique of its kind, found only in this area.
San Juan Chamula
In San Juan Chamula the main tourist attraction is the church. No masses are held in this building – only ceremonies and cleansings.
For example, raw eggs can show the sick part of a person’s body, and the inside of the body can be cleansed with them – although a plant can serve just as well. A cleansing is sometimes accompanied by a shaman (who drives away evil spirits). Chickens are offered as sacrifices by wringing their necks. The holy drink here is Coca-Cola, which also cleanses (through burping).
The church in Chamula is a clear example of a blend of indigenous and Christian beliefs. Inside, instead of God, the figures of the saints take centre stage. It seems the faithful pray to them as well as to their own deceased loved ones. They come to the church and sit on the floor.
We had the chance to be inside the church on the Day of the Dead (Día de Muertos). The women with children mostly sat on the floor (you had to watch where you stepped), while the men stood and passed each other little glasses of alcohol. The suffocating smell of incense hung everywhere. The church was small and it was packed inside (partly because of the tourists – you could barely get through). Taking photos was strictly forbidden. Tourists had to pay 30 MXN (about €1.60) for an entry ticket. Outside there was a procession of marchers, many of them carrying instruments (it felt as if everyone was playing whatever they liked), and a brass band (which was well coordinated). The procession circled the square where the church stands several times. It was accompanied by ringing bells and the bang of fireworks (the tourists covered their ears, the locals stood unmoved). It is a place unique in the whole country.
Getting to Chamula (from San Cristóbal)
👉 From: C. Honduras 10, Barrio de Mexicanos (San Cristóbal), shown on Google Maps as “Colectivo San Juan Chamula”
🚍 Cost: one way 20 MXN (about €1.20)
Zinacantán
We also visited the nearby town of Zinacantán, inhabited by the same ethnic group. The residents’ clothing is different, though (the women wear embroidered skirts and shawls over their shoulders). The church has a confessional and seats – it is much more Christian here. Zinacantán is known for weaving and hand embroidery.
Getting to Zinacantán (from San Cristóbal)
👉 From: C. Honduras 8A, 14 de Septiembre, shown on Google Maps as “Transportes Zinacantán”
📢 Additional information: this is not a regular colectivo (minibus) but a taxi colectivo (shared taxi)
🚖 Cost: one way (with a full car) 27 MXN (about €1.40)
