In July 2007 I spent a week in Switzerland with my sister, in the mountains around Savognin in Graubünden. We took the lift up to the pastures, rode down on mountain scooters, crossed the Albula and Julier passes and saw Chur and the Solis Viaduct along the way. Then we carried on to Tuscany in Italy.
Table of contents
- Savognin and the Graubünden Alps
- By lift above Savognin
- Mountain scooters and mountain carts
- Trails, flowers and mushrooms
- Lai Barnagn, mini golf and evenings
- The Albula and Julier passes
- Chur
- The Solis Viaduct and the Schin gorge
- Practical information
Savognin and the Graubünden Alps
Savognin is a village at about 1,200 m in the Surses valley, in the canton of Graubünden, in the Romansh-speaking part of Switzerland. In summer trails and gravel roads lead up to the pastures, with views of the high peaks.
The painter Giovanni Segantini, known for his Alpine landscapes, lived here from 1886 to 1894.
By lift above Savognin
On 1 July we took the lift from Savognin up above the valley. The middle station is Tigignas and the top one Somtgant, at about 2100 m. In summer the lift runs for walkers and cyclists.
The pastures begin at the top. Cows graze here, and in July the meadows are full of flowers.
Mountain scooters and mountain carts
On 3 July we rode down the gravel roads on mountain scooters with fat tyres, known as monster trottinette (“trottinette” is French for scooter), and three-wheeled mountain carts. Savognin has marked routes for this, from Somtgant via Tigignas down to the valley. The upper section is harder, and the lower one suits beginners.
Along the route we also passed some grazing llamas.
Trails, flowers and mushrooms
On the following days we walked the trails above the valley. Yellow signposts stand at the junctions, like this one at Mot Laritg (2163 m). Along the way we found flowers and red fly agarics.
Lai Barnagn, mini golf and evenings
There is plenty to do in the valley too. The Lai Barnagn bathing lake lies in the centre, with a leisure area and mini golf nearby.
We stayed in an apartment with its own kitchen, and some afternoons we played board games.
The Albula and Julier passes
On 2 July we drove up to the Albula Pass (2315 m). The road follows the Albula Railway, a Rhaetian Railway line that, together with the Bernina line, has been on the UNESCO list since 2008. The tracks run over stone viaducts above the road.
On 7 July we were at a second pass, the Julier (2284 m). This old road links the Surses valley with the Engadine and was already in use in Roman times.
Chur
One day we went to Chur, the capital of Graubünden, considered the oldest town in Switzerland. The old town has narrow lanes and colourful houses.
The Solis Viaduct and the Schin gorge
We stopped at the Solis Viaduct (Soliser Viadukt). This stone bridge of the Albula Railway opened in 1902. It is 164 m long, has a main arch spanning 42 m and runs about 85 m above the Albula river. The Schin gorge is also crossed here by a stone road bridge from 1868.
From Switzerland we carried on to the coast of Tuscany. The rest of the trip is in the post Tuscany: Pisa, Florence and Siena.
Practical information
- Savognin: in summer it is a quiet base for walking. Mountain weather changes fast, so take a warm jacket even in July.
- Scooters and mountain carts: you can rent them at the lift valley station in Savognin. Check opening hours and prices before you go.
- Solis Viaduct: you get a good view from the road and the valley trails.
